CAMP Dyon Express KS

We think the new CAMP Dyon Express KS is pretty cool. Read on to find out why.

CAMP Dyon Express KSThere’s not a lot you can say about quickdraws really. The basic design is there, two carabiners and a sling. Yet, when you have to use a bad one you really curse it, and the joy that comes from a fast, easy clip is unbeatable. The basic designs of carabiners don’t vary that much either. In fairly simple terms you have wire gates and and solid gates. Both have their pluses and minuses. CAMP has come up with a great new design that changes the conversation a bit. The new Dyon carabiner and Dyon Express KS quickdraw have a key-nose wiregate (Dyon mixed express has a solid gate bolt-side carabiner). CAMP calls their design SpereLock. The shape of the nose and receiver on the gate minimize play which helps to keep them connected in the event of a fall. We searched the internet as well as our collective brains for any knowedge of a key-nosed carabiner and the closes thing we could think of is the Petzl Ange, which is sort of a key-nose in reverse, but has a very small gate opening. The Dyon is one of those carabiners that is almost a joy to clip. The wide gate surface and slightly curved I-beam spine make grabbing and clipping very smooth. Bonus points for the strong gate action. It has a nice snap that gives confidence that the gate will stay closed and resist gate-flutter in the event of a fall.

Adding to the safely of the Dyon carabiner is the deep basket and rope groove that helps to keep the rope at the bottom where it should be and the wide lip will keep your rope happy by providing a nice surface on which to hang; should you find yourself hanging by the rope. It will take a long time for the Dyon to develop any sort of sharp groove. Though any carabiner, especially aluminium, is capable so always inspect your gear and discard anything that is worn and dangerous.

The polyester dogbones are wide and curved just-so to give you a good place to grab when you’re projecting a new route. They come in both 11 cm and 18 cm lengths. The shape and design kept the draw from twisting which can it harder to clip and dangerous if you happen to fall with it twisted. CAMP uses their own design, the Karstop Evo carabiner retainer on the rope end of the quickdraw to the carabiner secure and minimize clipping problems.

Dyon SphereLock GateAside from working well, the Dyon and Dyon mixed Express KS just look great. They do a great job of showcasing new technology. The design also makes for a quickdraw that is as light as it is easy to clip. There are lighter quickdraws, but none that offer this wide of a gate opening (26mm), this strong of an open gate rating (11kN), and are so easy to clip. The CAMP Dyon Express KS is 79 gm and the Dyon Mixed Express KS is 84 gm.

Our team of testers were  unanimous in giving the CAMP Dyon Express and CAMP Dyon Mixed Express two thumbs up.

MSRP – $33.95

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